A small taqueria in Mexico City has just snagged its first Michelin star for its delicious tacos. The bustling city, home to 22.5 million residents and a vibrant art scene, is renowned for its incredible array of food. From heavenly pastries like churros and conchas to antojitos like flautas, tamales, and esquites, Mexico City’s culinary landscape is a vivid mix of flavors, textures, and aromas. Amidst all this gastronomic excitement, one might wonder if the city needs more reasons to attract tourists—until now.
Step into El Califa de León and savor the “Gaonera,” a mouthwatering taco featuring a thinly sliced beef filet, cooked to perfection with a touch of salt and a splash of lime. Nearby, another chef skillfully prepares the fresh corn tortillas that complement this culinary masterpiece. The components are straightforward yet powerful. Although the restaurant offers homemade salsas, with meat and tortillas so rich, the salsas almost seem superfluous when enjoying this uncomplicated delicacy.
While the small stand offers other options like bistec, chuleta, and costilla, the Michelin Guide raves about the Gaonera taco, deeming it “exceptional,” “elemental,” and “pure.” According to the Washington Post, the taco is named after the famed Mexican bullfighter Rodolfo Gaona and is the brainchild of El Califa’s founder, Juan Hernández González.
The Gaonera Taco. Credit: Hector Vivas/Getty Images.
The cozy, 10-by-10-foot spot, adorned with white tiles and a large grill, exudes a communal vibe—small enough to eat your taco elbow to elbow but big enough to savor the grub—and has been a beloved fixture on Avenida Ribera de San Cosme, a bustling street lined with markets, shops, and vendors, since 1968. It has served its now-famous tacos for six decades from an unchanged menu, demonstrating that sometimes all it takes is love and premium, but simple, ingredients to create a truly exceptional dish.
El Califa de León. Credit: Silvana Flores/AFP/Getty Images.
Among the 157 restaurants in Mexico recognized by the Michelin Guide, El Califa is the only street food vendor in the “on a budget” category. Here, tacos, available only with cash, range from 53 to 82 Mexican pesos (about $3 to $5 each).
While it is the first, it’s hopefully not the last taco stand in the region to be Michelin-certified.
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